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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.